Middle class ways

Beriozka and we the middle class folks

It is difficult to talk in general terms about life of common man in USSR based on my limited exposure. With that disclaimer let me proceed.

I visited Moscow, Cosmodrome several times between 1976 – 92 or so.  These years were not the glorious ones for USSR as well as for India. My trips as a part of a team was to discuss mechanical / mechanism / thermal  interfaces, specifications, schedule etc and these meetings were held in Moscow. As a part of launch readiness I went with the team to Beikanur Cosmodrome.

Goods were in short supply in Moscow / elsewhere in USSR. Clothes, shoes, kitchen articles, household items such as sewing machines, driers, washing machines, kitchen items, ‘luxury’ items such as aftershaves, lipsticks , perfumes were limited in range and were of low quality. Import of goods from the Western world was prohibitively expensive and in fact generally not allowed lest the public start comparing their standard with that of the West. Imports were mostly from their satellite countries such as East Germany, Czechoslovakia , Romania, Poland or from third world countries such as India . ''Now you see it, now you don't'' was an apt description of the scene.

Whenever some new goods arrived , say ,  a quality dress material or bedsheet there would be an immediate crowd for it. It was said that people had cash but could not spend because there were not enough things to buy. One must remember that people had access to free education and healthcare ( no private schools or clinics or doctors ), could not buy property ( to be passed on to next generation ) , apartments were allotted by the government based on needs , travelling abroad was ‘ need based ’ , even travel to other cities within Soviet Union required permission. Sometimes there would be a long line in the shop and the person at the end of the line did not know what is being sold. This is not an exaggeration as I was to witness it once.  I heard from one of the Indian officials that when onions arrived after a severe shortage the entire staff in the embassy were   absconding as they rushed to buy ( Embassy had many north Indians and particularly Punjabis ) before stocks got exhausted.

However , there were shops called Beriozka in Moscow where one could buy much different goods paying hard currency such as USD, Pound, Mark etc. These were still run by the state. That meant only foreigners could shop there. Holding hard currency by a Soviet citizen was illegal and subject to severe punishment. The government wanted hard currency desperately. The foreign buyers were treated courteously and of course the crowd was much less. Any Russian seen in Bezioska would be a suspect as he is not supposed to have any foreign currency.

Goods sold in the shops ranged from products like watches (inexpensive, often attractive but difficult to repair outside the Soviet Union) to blank tape cassettes, imported perfumes and liquor, sundries and snacks, books and records. Of most interest to many tourists were the amber jewelry and gilded enamelware, cheerful khokhloma (painted wooden bowls, spoons and other household objects), luminous lacquered boxes illustrated with scenes from Russian folklore and history, Matryoshka or nesting dolls, embroidered skirts, children's toys and woodcarvings -and, of course, vodka and caviar. 


We had done our research well. What is available and where and when. Someone would announce that ‘ Arun Batra bought watches or some beautiful toy or whatever ’ and the news would spread quickly. Saturday program was set subject to any meeting Prof Rao might call. Better than Google map – we would have information like which Beriozka , which Metro station, which line, timings, price. Alternately , Beriozka  near university though a little far ( cost of Metro travel was the same ) was also available in case the first one ran out of stocks.

We bought Cuckoo clocks ( beautiful ones which would be wound by pulling a chain and the Cuckoo would come out every hour and chime) . These were available in a far off Beriozka ( but could be reached in less than 20 minutes by metro at the cost  of10 kopecks  - return tkt - or less . Compare : a cup of  Tea would cost 3 kopecks and 100 kopecks make a ruble ).

Some bought vacuum cleaners  (not in these shops though )  – so heavy and unwieldy – and carried them as hand luggage. It was very amusing if you are not the one who bought it. The heavy, sturdy vacuum cleaners would somehow reach Bangalore homes and within a week would find their final resting place in the garage or closet.

Some bought cheese ( what ? if you exclaim you do have a point ). It had to overcome barriers of a few days of storage ( no refrigerator in the room except the suite Prof Rao had ) , transport , customs in India and finally had to make a quick dash to the home and reach wife. I do not have a first hand information on how cheese tasted  or smelt after such hazardous journey but have a fair idea. I was one of the lucky ones, a conservative South Indian who would not spend money easily and hence was spared of some of the adventures. Our Project Director ( Dr Kasturi Rangan ) had to buy as Prof Rao did or recommended. He exclaimed to us how great a purchase he had made in an excited voice at once fake and with more than a trace of regret which he tried to hide unsuccessfully. I smiled.

Some bought  mother toys and vodka ( limited  as Customs would allow ) and foreign cigarettes ( not popular as they were expensive ). Caviar ( fish eggs ) black and shiny was very popular with Russians and expensive and was served only in Banquets. There would be sparkle in the eyes of Russians and  if I say in fact a respect and reverence as they waited impatiently for their turn to fill their plate it would not be an exaggeration at all.  Our Indian buyers even non -vegetarian ones and exposed  ( or thought to have been  ) to western norms , found fish eggs to be repulsive and in any case not worth the expense. They did not even try it when it was free in official dinners.

On Cheese : Russian one was ordinary ( from my later experience ) but was far better than Indian variety if at all it existed. May be they ( Russians )  had only one or two types of cheese reflecting the level of complexity they could handle. I recall,  speaking of France , the then president  Charles ge Gaulle said :
How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheese?


Let me narrate two interesting incidents. First  was the time when we were waiting for our flight from Beikanur to Moscow. The flight was delayed and naturally no reasons were given and it was not known when would it happen. We 15 – 18 of  us and Prof Rao, PD etc. After one or two hours we were given some coupons which could be exchanged for food and drinks. Food was an apology and hence drinks. We collected all coupons and got them exchanged for Bear. It was good that some did not want to drink. One , Prof Rao did not feel it appropriate at his level to go to the counter. Two, PD had to follow the boss. Three, there were people who were teetotalers  and soft drinks were not available . Rest of us had no such compulsions nor inhibitions . We sat on the floor , formed a circle and started drinking bear  ( as if it was ambrosia ) with a lot of animated discussions on all topics of interest in cacophony of voices at once clear, loud and simultaneous. Initially we were looked down. As the waiting time increased we could see the smile on Prof Rao’s face turn to irritation and I imagine a tinge of regret. PD was miserable ( ‘ trishanku ’). After a while our guardian angels ( KGB as we called them affectionately ) also  joined us and we had a great time. In fact when flight was announced there was a feeling of reluctance to get up.

The second one involves Patki. He went to Moscow with some team and was returning. At the Indian airport at the customs he was asked to declare the bottles of drink he had brought. One bottle was allowed and there was one smaller one which was not. No amount of cajoling could help. So as only AVP could do, he opened the forbidden bottle and drank it. And walked out of customs triumphantly.

As I look back at us – middle class, conservative, thrifty , opportunistic folks – I can not but smile. Small things, small pleasures but resulted in deeper bonds ,  diminished hostilities , formed new friendships. We were small men but collectively not that small. We achieved something that we ( not just  the team that went there ) could feel proud of.

I am not indulging in nostalgia which glorifies the past nor feels bad that those good old days are gone and yearns for that to return.

Once upon a time there was a tavern
Where we used to raise a glass or two
Remember how we laughed away the hours
And think of all the great things we would do
…        
                                                      Mary Hopkin

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QptZ8tYZAkE

Or more intensely and with religious fervor a song from  ‘Meera ‘ , a Tamil movie , sung by MS
‘ anda naalum vandidatho ; brindavanayhil Kannan valarntha’  ( can we get back those days when Krishna grew up in Brindavan )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjJZFo1sm-w

I am not immune to it but keep reminding myself that magical days are here and now.

I keep thinking if it is nostalgia that makes these fond or dear to me. I am aware that nostalgia can blur memories, add colours , make oneself appear in better light  …  If past can play important role in shaping present, it is also true that view of the past can be painted by present. I do not hold much importance if life is enjoyed only in nostalgia. I do believe that when things / events happened and we experienced them did I ( we ) feel so as I do now ? Did I enjoy or feel the emotions at that time ?
In a larger sense meaning to those little things or for that matter to life itself does not arise from them alone. It is what we ascribe to them; what we imbue into them.

I keep recalling a line from Thyagaraja
Enaati Nomu Phalamo! Ye Daana Balamo!
( What penance and vows have brought me this blessing? To which generous alms given by me do I owe this fortune? )

That brings me to the present , grateful , happy and alive to glorious life. I hope I can retain that.